< PreviousGeologic History Fire and Flood: How Mt. Hood and The Columbia River Gorge Formed The breathtaking landscape of Oregon today was shaped over tens of millions of years by fire and flood, earthquakes and eruptions, and the movement of oceans and continents on an epic scale. While most visitors to Oregon’s natural areas on Mt. Hood and in the Columbia River Gorge see a vast and unchanging wilderness, geologists can divine the untold story of this ever-shifting landscape from the rocks, minerals, fossils and sediment that make up the region. Our story truly begins in the Miocene era (some 12-17 million years ago) and continues to take shape through the Pleistocene era (some two million to 700,000 years ago), when the Cascade mountain range, which includes Mt. Hood, formed through a series of volcanic eruptions. Today, we can trace the path of two primordial floods—one of flowing magma, and one of raging waters—on their path down the Columbia River Gorge. As the flowing magma cooled into layers of basalt, the Columbia Plateau was born. Home to some of Oregon’s most dramatic scenery, the Columbia Plateau comprises the most well-studied flood basalt deposit in the world. Finally, at the end of the last Ice Age (approximately 14,000- 20,000 years ago), massive floods from the glaciers carved away the dramatic, steep-walled canyon we see today, exposing layer upon layer of basalt. Today, Mt. Hood is home to 12 glaciers. The three most prominent being Eliot and Langille set on the north side and Palmer on the south. 8Geology and Agriculture Chances are, no matter where you live, you’ve already tasted the bounty of the Mt. Hood and Columbia River Gorge region. If you’ve ever sipped a fruit-forward Pinot noir from Stave & Stone, scooped a tasty spoonful of Ben & Jerry’s Cherry Garcia (yes, those cherries come direct from The Dalles) or decorated a Douglas fir Christmas tree from Estacada, then you know the region produces some of the best agricultural products available. Rich volcanic soils (mostly silty loams collected over the ages from floods, volcanic activity and landslides) and a varied climate (sunny days along with plenty of our famous Pacific Northwest rain) make the Mt. Hood and Columbia River Gorge region uniquely positioned for agriculture. Wine grapes have been cultivated here since the 1880s, while orchard fruit cultivation began as early as 1850. Today, our region is best known for orchard fruits like apples, cherries and pears, as well as wine grapes and salmon (coho, chinook and sockeye). The region is a unique confluence of multiple biomes and distinct ecosystems based on location proximity to Mt. Hood and the weather patterns that result from it. These ecosystems are home to abundant coniferous and deciduous trees and high desert landscapes, which contribute to the beautiful varied microclimates we see throughout the area. Common plants you may find while hiking include Oregon grape, Salal berry, rhododendron, trillium, swordfern and twinflower. For more historical insight and perspective on the Columbia River system watch, Stories from the River: Celilo (confluenceproject.org/library-post/ stories-from-the-river-celilo).Indigenous Peoples and Food Sovereignty More than 10,000 Years of Culture Experience for yourself the remarkable abundance of the Columbia River, and it’s easy to see why this region has been inhabited by Indigenous peoples for generations. The area surrounding the mid-Columbia River is one of the oldest continuously occupied places in the Western Hemisphere and has been home to Indigenous peoples since time immemorial. For more than 10,000 years, early inhabitants have lived or traveled to the Mt. Hood (or Wy’East as the Multnomah tribe first called it) and Columbia River region where towering Douglas firs and bountiful salmon harvests provided shelter and sustenance. Even as groups of people spread south and east, this region remains an important destination for social gathering and trade. Today, the agricultural land and prolific waters continue to bring cultural, spiritual and economic livelihood to the Native people who have always been here and cared for it. Their intrinsic tie to and appreciation for the unique natural resources of this region have made sustainability practices not an afterthought but foundational to their way of living. As Buck Jones, member of Cayuse Tribe and part of Columbia River Inter-Tribal Fish Commission, shared upon reflecting on his motivation for his daughter’s grandkids to be able to fish throughout their time: “We’re not here to inherit the earth from our ancestors; we’re here to borrow it from our children. Natives think about looking forward.” In that spirit, we hope you seek more learning on a trip to the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center and Museum with your kids, class or community group. First Foods The area’s earliest inhabitants were nomadic hunters who relied on big game such as elk and deer. The traditional lifestyle was one of hunting and foraging with seasonal camps established for fishing or gathering purposes. Roots such as camas and horsetail, berries like huckleberries and wild blackberries, as well as game, fish and edible and medicinal plants were all important to the tribes of the Columbia River area, both for nourishment and for spiritual practices. Although salmon and other first foods are not as plentiful as they were pre-colonization (due to industrialization and climate change), many Indigenous peoples along the Columbia River still eat traditional foods like roots, berries, deer and salmon as part of their daily diets today. Go Fish Indigenous peoples have fished the waters of the Columbia River for thousands of years, continually refining fishing strategies and tools in order to harvest salmon, sturgeon, lamprey and eulachon (or smelt). Native fishers used a variety of natural resources, including wood, stone, bone, antler, hide, tendon and plant fibers, to fashion tools for catching and preparing fish. The salmon was the first food to appear in early spring, and families would gather along the Columbia River at ancestral fishing sites to catch and dry enough salmon for the year ahead. Before The Dalles Dam was built in 1957, it was said that there were so many fish that one could walk across a creek on the backs of salmon. Wooden scaffolds or platforms were set up next to the river, supported by or suspended from the rocks around them. Native fishers would perch atop these structures, using long-handled dip nets or spears to gather fish. 11Today, they commonly use modern-day fishing equipment and boats in addition to use of the platforms and dip nets. Traditional salmon feasts are still held annually near the site of Celilo Falls, to celebrate the fish coming back and give deep thanks for the river’s bounty. To the Indigenous peoples of the Columbia River Basin, salmon are more than a food source. They are a symbol of the link between man and creator, and a spiritual connection with salmon remains a vital part of Columbia River Basin Indigenous peoples’ heritage and culture. A Note on Indigenous Fishing Platforms and Buying Fresh Salmon While the salmon population in Oregon’s rivers and streams have dropped dramatically following colonization, the Columbia River still plays host to traditional fishing sites, some still with wooden platforms and traditional dip nets. If you come across a fishing platform, feel free to admire the view from a distance. Under no circumstances should you attempt to approach, climb on, or fish from a traditional fishing platform out of respect and safety. When salmon season opens in late spring, summer and fall, the public is welcome to purchase the day’s fresh catch or delicious smoked salmon directly from Indigenous fishers. For information on where to buy premium Columbia River chinook, coho, sockeye, and/or steelhead, visit Columbia River Inter-Tribal Fish Commission (https://critfc. org/harvest). 12The Oregon Trail The Oregon Trail was a 2,170-mile east-west covered wagon route and emigrant trail that connected the Missouri River to valleys in Oregon, stretching from present-day Kansas and spanning nearly all of modern-day Nebraska and Wyoming. The western half of the trail stretched across most of current-day Idaho and Oregon. Over 400,000 settlers, farmers, miners, ranchers, business owners and their families traveled west on the Oregon Trail. The Donation Land Act of 1850, which allowed for white males and married women to claim 320 acres of free land in Oregon, spurred this movement of resettlement in the west, forcing the displacement and removal of Indigenous peoples from the lands they resided on since time immemorial. In 1847, Henderson Luelling and his son, Seth, left Iowa on the Oregon Trail with two wagons filled with 700 grafted apple, pear, peach and cherry trees. After arriving in Oregon, they established a nursery and sold thousands of trees in Oregon and California. Modern highways, like Highway 26 and Interstate 84, still follow parts of the same course westward, even passing through towns originally established as pit-stops along the Oregon Trail. In many parts of the region, you can still see how the established industry and businesses from over 175 years ago have yielded to ones that are thriving today. You can learn more about the history of the Oregon Trail by visiting the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center and Museum in The Dalles. Or take the family to visit the historic homestead of Philip Foster Farm and check out their heritage garden to see what pioneer families used to grow. 13CHAPTER 2 West Columbia River GorgeWest Bound The milky-green, glacial waters of the Sandy River head northward for 56 miles before meeting its confluence with the Columbia River. Here, a fertile delta gave birth to an agricultural legacy, including the early 1900s when it was known as ‘the celery capital of the world.’ It’s also where the Willamette Valley runs into the western gateway of the Columbia River Gorge. This region boasts one of the most diverse fisheries in the state, providing habitat for various species of salmon and trout, as well as the giant white sturgeon—the largest and longest-living fish in the Columbia River Basin. Its western edge is home to Townsend Farms, a family-owned berry farm that has grown into one of the state’s largest producers through three generations of love and labor. The eastern stretches of this area offer a bounty of Native edibles like huckleberries and wapato that are nestled in between the old growth forests and intermittent waterfalls that spill over the ledges of mountainous walls. Leave the Portland metro area behind and journey through the communities of Fairview, Wood Village, Troutdale, Corbett and Cascade Locks as they dot a path 30 miles upriver into the heart of the Columbia River Gorge. Feeling nostalgic? Hop on a shuttle or drive yourself along the 75-mile Historic Columbia River Highway, also known as the King of Roads. Over 100 years old, the Historic Columbia River Highway was the U.S.’s first nationally designated scenic highway. West Gorge Food Trail = West Gorge Food Trail Berry farms, breweries, fisheries and restaurants serving up ingredients sourced within 150 miles are just some of what travelers can expect to savor along this trail. Whether you choose to chart your own course or go with a guided tour via cycling, sternwheeler, hiking or a hop on, hop off shuttle, you will certainly experience wonder (and we mean in the most delicious ways possible) at each stop along the way. 16A renowned destination for overnighters, music goers and quirky adventure seekers is of course the historic McMenamins Edgefield Hotel . Built in 1911 as a poor farm, this 74-acre property has had original farm buildings restored and preserved to now boast a winery, distillery, brewery, along with dining and entertainment options with McMenamins’ signature whimsy. Land conservation is a central tenet to many families and farms in our region. This is absolutely true of Columbia View Blueberry Farm (formerly Klock Farm), which practices environ- mentally friendly farming to protect against water erosion, protect wildlife and native pollinators, and reduce greenhouse gas emissions. The Klock family began this farm in 1980 as a private, 20-acre working farm complete with mature blueberry, apple, raspberry and caneberry orchards. Today, the farm offers u-picking to locals and visitors and commercially harvests 50 tons of blueberries each season. As you journey along the “Waterfall Corridor,” do not miss the tucked away gem, Bridal Veil Lodge Bed and Breakfast . Since 1926, they’ve offered respite to road weary travelers along the Columbia River Highway. Hiking, biking, paddling and stunning waterfalls nestled in old-grown forests are steps from the front door. After a day of adventuring, relax and dine in chic comfort at this quaint lodge that sources your breakfast fare directly from neighboring farms just down the road. For locals or visitors grilling dinner at home or looking for a lunch spot, a stop by a fish market for the day’s fresh catch is an absolute must. In Cascade Locks, pull up to the brick and mortar Brigham Fish Market , owned by Kim and Terrie Brigham, two sisters who are members of the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation. The colorful tapestry of the food scene here is possible because of the careful and and resource stewardship of Indigenous communities like the Umatilla. Close by, you’ll also usually be able to find Native fish market stands underneath the Bridge of the Gods , in the Bridgeside parking lot. When driving through Hood River, it’s worth a call to see if the Wild Columbia Salmon fish stand at 108 Highway 35 is open. Or order salmon on the menu at one of 20 different restaurants they source fish for in the area. Whichever destination, your taste buds will not only sing with delight for premium, wild-caught chinook, coho or sockeye salmon, but you’ll have the opportunity to buy directly from tribe members whose heritage is inextricably woven into the history of these riverbanks. Next >